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Secondly, to analyse the shape of the components of the original design (or diagram).
Thirdly, for the information that constitutes this bag, the contents include
I. Number of paper compartments. Specification, colour and quantity of hardware and plastic sealing materials. Third, the number, specification, colour and quantity of zip and webbing.
D. Specification of hemming and biting material. V. Stitch length (generally 8 stitches/inch).
Fourth, write the production process.
Fifth, counting materials.
Sixthly, instructing the workers in the room to open the material and the workers in the car.
Chapter 3: Out-of-order tools and common uses
Section 1: The tools
A steel ruler in inches or centimetres.
Two, to inches or centimetres as a unit of soft leather ruler a.
Three, a garden rule.
4. A knife (with blade).
One handbag (or photo or picture).
One pencil and one eraser each.
Seven, a number of 250P - 300P paper skins.
VIII. A table one metre long, 50cm wide and 80cm high.
ix. A piece of matting rubber with a specification of 100 x 50 cm.
X. A piece of positioning iron.
Eleven, a movable stool.
The above is a set of handbag tools that each staff member must have when working.
Section II of the use of tools
A steel ruler: 1. used to measure the length of flat, hard materials. 2. with the lower left corner of the point. 3. between the straight line
Second, the soft leather ruler: 1. to measure the length and perimeter of curved, wrinkled, soft materials.
C. Garden gauge: 1. draw arcs. 2. enlarge the paper grid. 3. play howl. 4. degree position.
4.Making knife: 1.Punching cross position. 2.Making paper frame.
V. Handbag (picture): 1. out of frame reference.
Pencils and erasers to draw up or modify patterns.
vii. 250P - 300P cardboard, materials for outline.
VIII. Table: the padding used to keep the cut of the paper grid straight and to protect the table.
IX. Positioning iron: When two pieces of paper lattice overlap, a positioning iron is used to fix the position and prevent displacement.
X. Table: The support for the grid.
11.Movable stool: the person needs to stand and sit at the same time, and needs to come out from all directions, the stool needs to be able to move.
Section 3: Precautions to be taken when holding a knife and paper
The gesture of holding the knife is demonstrated in the practical class.
When using the knife, the left hand is pressed against the centre of the ruler, the right hand is pressed against the knife, and the mouth of the knife is pressed against the edge of the ruler, with the direction of pull being straight towards the direction in which the person is standing. If the force is to the left, the ruler will be displaced; if the force is to the right, the knife will be detached from the edge of the ruler, and the paper grid under both will not pass.
Chapter 4: Knowledge of grading
The first section of the code, ruler, inch, points of understanding
Many handbag factories use steel ruler and soft leather ruler, is in inches for the unit (mainland China does not have this kind of ruler for sale) we must come to an understanding of the British system of length units.
Yard: English YARD, represented by the letter "Y".
Ruler: FOOT in English, with the letter "F" or "'".
Inch: English INCH, with the letters "IN" or "" ".
Where the rate conversion relationship is.
1 yard = 3 feet
1 foot = 12 inches
1 inch = 8 English cents (especially keep this in mind)
So: 1 English cent = 1/8 of an inch
1/2 cent = 1/16th of an inch
1/4 of an inch = 1/32 of an inch
In the handbag factory, the maximum error value of the handbag paper grid is 1/32 of an inch, (i.e. inches for the minimum scale of the steel ruler) the maximum error value allowed for the finished handbag is 1/16 of an inch.
In the Chinese length conversion: 1 m = 3 feet (city ruler, city inch); 1 foot = 10 inches; 1 inch = 10 minutes. Many learners confuse 1 inch = 8 English minutes with Chinese ruler 1 inch = 10 minutes when they apply 1 inch = 8 English minutes. For example, the Chinese ruler 3 inches over 1 minute can be recorded as 3.1 inches or 31/10 inches, while the length measured in feet is 8 inches over 1 English minute, the trainees also recorded as 3.1 or 31/10 inches which is wrong. The reason is that the scale in feet is divided into 8 compartments per 1 inch, so it is correct to write it down as 31/8 or 3.125 inches. 3.1 = \= 3.125; 31/10 = \= 31/8. Another example is that 4 inches over 5 minutes, it is correct to write it down as 45/8, but it is wrong to write it down as 45/10 or 41/2. Remember, using feet, the denominator is 8.
Section 2: Basic properties of fractions and their operations
As we use the representation of length, when we want to account for the total length or perimeter of the material and perform out-of-the-ordinary operations, we need to recognise the basic properties of fractions and the laws of their operations. For more detailed knowledge, learners should refer to chapters 4 and 5 of Book 10 of the Sixth Form Mathematics textbook.
Basic properties of fractions: The numerator and denominator of a fraction are multiplied or divided by the same number (except for zero), and the value of the fraction remains the same.
For example, 1/2 and 10/24 are transformed into a number with a denominator of 12 and whose size remains the same.
Operations with fractions
To add and subtract fractions with the same denominator, add and subtract with the numerator, leaving the denominator unchanged.
To add and subtract fractions with different denominators, first pass through the fractions and then add and subtract them in the same way as fractions with the same denominator.
To multiply fractions by fractions, multiply the numerator by the resulting number as the numerator and the denominator by the resulting number as the denominator. Dividing a number by a number is equivalent to multiplying by the reciprocal of that number.
Section 3: Fractions in paper grids
In gridding, there is usually an operation where you measure out a length, take 1/2 of its length, and add the length of a paper opening. For example, the length of the front of a handbag is 41/8" and the width is 4". If: the length of the front of the handbag is 41/8" and the width is 4", if the length of the paper opening is 2/8", 1/2 of the length and width plus the length of a paper opening are
Section 4 The Plane Cartesian Coordinate System
Two axes of numbers in the plane with a common origin and perpendicular to each other constitute a plane right-angle coordinate system.
Any point P in the plane of coordinates has a unique pair of ordered real numbers (X, Y) that correspond to it; in turn, any pair of ordered real numbers (X, Y) can fix a unique point in the plane such that its coordinates are (X, Y). The plane's right-angle co-ordinate system, therefore, can combine 'number' and 'form'.
The handbag is a three-dimensional object, but the single components that make up the handbag are in the same plane. In order to draw up the shape of the components of the handbag, we can first measure the number of switches related to them with a ruler, determine the points related to the switches with these numbers and connect these points with a straight line or a circular curve to draw up the surface shape of the components of the handbag. Then, using a circular gauge, we follow the edge of the surface shape of the component and enlarge it by a length of paper for the unit, and we have the shape of the component. This is the principle and method of drawing out a handbag component.
In future, we can use the 'co-ordinate method' to solve any shape of component we encounter.
Chapter 5: How to measure the length of a handbag
The bag is a special technical task that requires a high degree of precision. According to its raw materials and structural characteristics, when measuring the length of the following matters should be noted.
First, the object to be measured requires flat on the table, measuring the length of its natural state, absolutely not allow the physical material tension, because many of the handbag raw materials are stretchy. Otherwise the length measured is longer than the actual object.
Second, measure the distance between two parallel lines, shall make the steel ruler and two parallel lines perpendicular, can make the starting end of the steel ruler fixed in a parallel line, the other end in another parallel line on the teeth move, the shortest scale is the distance between the two parallel lines, because the shortest vertical line segment.
Third, the starting point of the ruler should coincide with the line position, if the upper bone pocket, you can not see the line position, the starting point from the centre of the bone, the end point to the opposite line position or the centre of the bone shall prevail. (The length of the paper mouth is counted separately)
Fourth, when using the soft leather ruler to measure the folded daisy or bent object, the soft leather ruler must be completely overlapped with the object to be measured, otherwise it will be biased long.
Fifth, when reading out the length of the measured object, the line of sight must be perpendicular to the scale on the ruler, if the line of sight is to the left or to the right, it will read out a longer or shorter length than the actual object, resulting in human error.
Chapter 6 Markings on the paper compartment of a handbag
Section 1: The paper opening of the paper compartment
The paper opening is in the paper compartment and is the extra length we have left over, invisible from the surface of the handbag, for the hem. The more stickers there are, the longer the opening.
See chapter 7 for more information on the notches.
Section 2: The triangular notch in the paper compartment
The triangular notch in the handbag compartment is one of the features that distinguishes the handbag compartment from the garment compartment. The triangular notch has the following functions.
One, the triangular notch is a mark indicating the method of making the handbag.
Second, the triangular notch is a single piece of paper lattice correct or incorrect test mark.
Three, the triangle gap is between the paper and paper, complete sets of matching or not the test mark.
The triangular notch is the test mark for the turning method and the turning skills of the turner.
Different handbags, due to different structures, different shapes of the paper lattice, different lengths of the paper mouth, the location and number of triangular notches are bound to be different. However, the size of the triangular notch is the same for the same paycheck.
The position of the triangular notches is most closely related to the construction of the handbag. This can only be taught in practical lessons, one by one, for the actual handbag.
Section 3: Howling in the paper compartment
The triangular notch is a symbol that is punched on the edge of the paper compartment to indicate the structure of the handbag. For complex handbags, one or several pockets are also designed on the large component to avoid the monotony of its shape and to increase the practicality of the handbag. To determine the position of a pocket inside the paper opening of a component, it is necessary to hit the howl bit, not the triangular notch. (This is because triangular notching in the centre of the component will break the material.)
Determining the position of various hardware and plastic decorations is also indicated by howl bits.
Howl bits for paper grids are usually circled around them with a pen and marked with their purpose.
The determination of the position of the howl bit is also achieved using coordinates, which will be explained in the practical lesson.
Section 4: Text marks on the paper grid
Text markings on the paper grid, including the following.
I. The item number of this handbag. (to prevent confusion with other compartments)
2. The name and quantity of the compartment. (for easy opening and checking)
3. The method of cutting, i.e. horizontal or straight cut.
4. Indicate the maximum length and width of the grid. Use the maximum length data multiplied by the maximum width data to indicate. (Clerks in handbag factories, with these two numbers count material)
Five, howl bit and part of the three notches role.
The above three, four and five items are omitted from the paper grid in some factories.
Chapter 7: Data related to the outline
The first section of the paper mouth length
One, the paper mouth of the package edge sticky material is generally 3/8 - 4/8 inch (3 - 4 minutes).
Second, other paper mouth is generally 2/8 - 3/8 inch, of which the vast majority of paper mouth is 5/16 inch (2 and a half minutes).
Third, leather handbags, the paper mouth of which is generally 3/16 - 2/8 inch.
Section II Other data
I. Zipper mouth width 4/8 - 9/16 inch (4 points - 4½ points).
II. Pulling aggregate width 5/8 inch (5 points).
III. Width of hemming 6/8 - 7/8 inch (6 points - 7 points).
Chapter 8 Out of the box approach
Section I. Analysis of the overall structure of the handbag
On the market, we see a wide range of complex handbags, forming styles. If you analyse them all together, it is easy to see that most of them have this structural commonality: there is a front panel, a back panel and a large surround; a left panel, a right panel and a large surround; a front panel, a back panel and a base material, which are the three basic constituent elements. Some handbags, the front width by a few pieces of a thousand shapes, flowers and branches of raw materials merged into the front of the front width is also mounted on a flat or three-dimensional front outer pocket; back width is also mounted on the back; large circumference and divided into the bottom and zip circumference, large circumference on both sides of the symmetrical two side pockets, according to the consumer's use, in the above three basic components outside the building blocks to add or subtract, so that the overall shape of the handbag is varied and complex.
But no matter how complex the handbag we come across, it's hard to be out of the ordinary. The complexity of the bag only increases the amount of work we have to do, but not the technical difficulty of making it. The variations in the shape of a handbag do not override the commonalities in the structure of a handbag, and as long as we can see the structure of a handbag, we have a prerequisite for making a statement.
The commonalities in the structure of a handbag are abstracted through generalisation after we have seen many handbags with our naked eyes. If you are a smart person, you will also find that there are rules to the structure of the bag that are not visible to the naked eye alone: the circumference of the width is equal to the total length of its corresponding surround; the circumference of the base is equal to the length of its connecting elements.
Any set of paper compartments that violate these rules cannot be matched to form a bag.
For the construction of handbags, we will cover a large selection of bags by type of handbag, which will be covered again in the practical lesson.
Section 2: Shape analysis of handbag components
The shape of the handbag components (henceforth all the handbag composition components for short), there are rectangles, squares, triangles, trapezoids, prisms, circles, ovals, square polygons, etc.. These, we call regular shapes; there are also convex and concave polymorphs. Several shapes are mixed to form mixed shapes, and other shapes that are difficult to name, which we call irregular shapes.
To define the shape of a regular component, or to relate it to mathematical knowledge. A rectangle can be shaped by simply measuring its length and width; a square by the length of its sides; a trapezoid by its upper and lower base and height; a prism by its two diagonals; a square circle by its diameter or radius; an ellipse by its major and minor diameters. For those irregular shapes, which have been described in Chapter 4, Section 4, the coordinate method can be used to define the shape of the handbag component. Secondly, they are mostly axisymmetric shapes.
What is an axisymmetric figure?
If a figure is folded along a line, and if it overlaps with the other half of the figure, then the figure is called an axisymmetric figure, and the line is called the axis of symmetry.
As the shape of the components of a handbag are mostly axisymmetric, we only need to show one half of the component shape when we produce the grid, and the other half can be produced by folding it along the axis of symmetry. This saves us a lot of work and time.
Section 3: Sequence
The order of the bag is: first out of the main frame (also called the main frame), then out of the secondary frame (out of the secondary frame)
What is the main frame?
The paper compartment that determines the shape or size of the other compartments is called the main compartment.
What is the secondary frame?
A square whose shape or size depends on the other squares.
The combination of several secondary compartments, either in shape or length, has a certain relationship with the shape or size of the main compartment.
In a typical handbag, the width is the main compartment and the circumference is the secondary compartment; the back compartment is the main compartment of the front compartment; the front compartment is the main compartment of the front circumference; the side compartment is the main compartment of the side circumference.
Therefore, the general order of the handbag is as follows: back width, front width, large body bottom zip surround, front pocket width, front pocket surround, side pocket width, side pocket surround.
This order of the bag is determined by the laws of handbag construction mentioned in the first section of this chapter.
Section 4: The pattern method
Out of the method is a combination of all the above knowledge (here is an example of the main frame first after the width).
Firstly, firstly, cut a piece of paper with a knife, which is larger than the length and width of the back panel.
Second, in the centre of the paper as a straight line as a number axis (can not be broken, can be folded), fold up, then in the number axis directly above, with a garden gauge iron foot hit a roar, roar and then a straight line (can not be broken) as a second number axis, so that the paper will appear on the two perpendicular to each other axis.
Third, along the second axis of the number of folding, in the first axis of the play roar, if the roar position also in another pair of folding surface on the axis, the coordinate system qualified, the piece of paper can be used to continue out of the grid, such as the coordinate system failed, this piece of paper can be rejected (coordinate system verticality test).
4. Measure the length and width of the surface of the back of the bag, and take half of each plus the length of the paper opening for the coordinates. If you get the length of the surface of the back panel.
Fifth, in the coordinate system, find the point with (129/16, 107/16) as coordinates, and by folding the coordinate axis to hit the roar, find the point (-129/16, 107/16) (-129/16, -107/16) (129/16, -107/16) -107/16) for a total of three points. By removing the excess paper along these points, the shape of a rectangular back panel is obtained, with a specification of (129/16) x (107/16 x 2), i.e. 251/8 x 211/8. The SG specification is 5/8 longer and wider than its surface specification of 24T/2 x 201/4, i.e. two paper opening lengths each.
If the four corners of the back of the width is curved, can be used to out its curvature, any other shape, are solved with the coordinate method.
Sixth, in order to good back width shape, according to the structure of the bag triangle gap and howl bit, in the back width of the paper frame written on the various text mark, the back width out of the frame will be declared the end.
Seven, the use of the main frame later out of the secondary frame before the width and the big round.
Many of the front panels, which are a combination of several pieces of material, have the same shape and size as the back panels. Therefore, you can use the back frame to mould the shape of the combined material of the front frame, but its structure law is: the circumference of the back frame = the total length of the large surround, once the back frame is determined, we must use the back frame to measure out the total length of the large surround. In this way, the paper compartment is measured according to the order in which it is made, and the shape of each piece of paper compartment is determined by measuring the handbag and marking it until it is finished.
The handbag is three-dimensional, the components are not taken down to touch the paper grid, and although the paper grid can be picked up and compared with the original identification, it is more than the corresponding surface shape of the handbag components in the paper outlet. In order to make the two can compare with each other, we can first according to the size of the handbag surface components out of the frame, while out of the frame and handbag surface components comparison, until its shape and size are the same as the surface shape of the components, and then a paper mouth length as a unit, with a circular gauge to enlarge the paper frame, this out of the frame method, is more practical and easy to accept.
Chapter 9: Inspection of the paper grid
The first section of the classification of paper inspection
The inspection of the paper frame, divided into the single inspection of the paper frame and the complete set of matching inspection of the paper frame. The single piece inspection of the paper lattice is generally in the process of the paper lattice, while out of the paper lattice while the inspection, the unqualified paper lattice, in the out of the lattice rejected. The matching test of the paper lattice is to test the paper lattice after the lattice has been produced to see if it conforms to the structure.
The paper grid test, is the correctness of the paper grid test, the maximum allowable error value of the paper grid is 1/32 inch, its comparison of the reference, is the actual handbag.
The second section of the content and methods of the paper grid test
A, the shape and size of the paper grid test method: the paper grid along the coordinate axis folded, the shape of the triangular gap should be overlapping overlap, otherwise, failed.
Second, the shape and size of the paper lattice test: the paper lattice before the enlargement and the handbag physical comparison, the degree of overlap does not exceed the maximum error value allowed shall prevail.
Third, the paper lattice triangle gap test: the main test triangle gap is complete to make its four roles; triangle gap size is consistent.
Fourth, the degree of matching between the paper grid and the paper grid test: using the paper grid to measure the paper grid, check whether it conforms to the structure of the law.
Chapter 10: Scheduling
Scheduling is a technical task for the opening of the material, which saves raw materials.
In a set of paper lattice, the size of the paper lattice varies, the specifications of the raw material, there is always a fixed width data, generally 54 inches, 56, 58, 60 inches 4 kinds of width. A width to a piece of paper grid often have a row of X blocks have a surplus row X + 1 block of insufficient circumstances. In order to save raw materials, we also row another small paper frame, in order to use the row of X block of hands remaining raw materials, to achieve the purpose of the full use of raw materials.
The following rules should be observed in general.
First, the first row of large paper grid, after the row of small paper grid.
Second, the row of material to consider the surface pattern of raw materials and the texture of the inner only.
The surface pattern is positive, diagonal, horizontal, inverted, the paper grid should also be positive, diagonal, inverted row.
The inner texture of the raw material of the handbag, especially the leather, is divided into horizontal and straight grain.
Grab the two ends of the raw material with your hands and pull, there is a stretch for the horizontal grain; no stretch for the straight grain. The horizontal grain has a strong re-folding force, so for bag covers, handles and straps that need to be swung from time to time, it is advisable to arrange the material according to the horizontal grain. Straight grain has a strong support force, can withstand extrusion without deformation, front and back width and most of the components, it is appropriate to arrange the material according to the straight grain, the horizontal grain in the process of turning may become longer, while the straight grain will not, to pay special attention.
Chapter 11: Counting
The so-called material counting, is to account for the yardage of raw materials used in bulk handbags, the method is as follows.
I. Sort out the type of raw materials needed for the handbag.
Two, according to the specifications on the paper grid, accounting for the area of each piece of paper grid.
Third, accounting for the area of various raw materials and (square inch) and then multiplied by 1.09 (the remaining material loss of 9% when the material is opened).
Fourth, using the formula: the number of calculations, is the number of yards required for the batch of handbags.
And cutter in charge of the planning method, but based on the method of row of materials, row of how many pieces of paper grid a total of a few yards, row enough to produce the required amount of raw materials and a few yards of this proportional formula to calculate. This method of counting is the most accurate and practical.
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